As a follow up to my previous post, I’d like to direct you to a recent blog entry and discussion involving New York Times Wine Columnist Eric Asimov and winemaker Michael Twelftree. Asimov’s blog is here and you can find Twelftree’s side of story by following the link Asimov provided. While I generally agree with Asimov’s stance that in many ways expands upon my previous comments there are some additional points to consider.
Despite my relationship with AVA Wine, I am most noted for my expertise in Burgundy, precisely the lower-alcohol, food wines to which Asmiov occurs (at least in most cases). That being said, I unlike Mr. Asimov probably drink wine on its own at least half the time. And when I do drink it alone, I generally do prefer it to be lower in alcohol – in addition to Burgundy (both white and red), German Rieslings fit the bill nicely in this respect as well. If I opt for most California wines, Bordeaux or other fuller-bodied reds, I prefer to have them with red meat, a grilled steak usually does the trick. So in some ways, I guess you can say that I am in opposition to either Asimov or Twelftree in that, I only enjoy fuller, high-octane wines when they’re served with food; after all, if I going to binge, why not do it right and besides, if the wine has a good bit of alcohol, I’d prefer to have a big meal with it to try to avoid the negative affects of the alcohol. One of the worst ideas I’ve ever had was a a large tasting party where everyone was required to bring a bottle a Zinfandel – not White Zinfandel – but the alcoholic, intense, jammy red wine. After downing even small samples of 15 – 20 reds in excess of 15% alcohol, not one guest had their wits about them.
My I also posit the following? I know Asimov fairly well and appreciate his writing and knowledge as well. Twelftree I’ve met only briefly, but Mr. Asimov leaves out the fact that not only is Twelftree involved with Two Hands Winery in Australia but also runs a small, new negociant in Burgundy known as Mischief and Mayhem. The sources for Twelftree’s grapes in Burgundy are among some of the finest traditional producers in that region. So clearly Twelftree hasn’t lost sight of the fact that there’s room for more than one type of wine in the world.
Noting this takes me back to last weeks entry – where I basically told you that I like wines that taste the way they are supposed to taste. Wines from Diamond Mountain should taste like Diamond Mountain. Wines from the Napa Valley floor should taste just so. Even California Chardonnay comes in many forms - such as the steely, Silver Mountain 2001 Chardonnay from a cooler site atop high in the Santa Cruz Mountains. It may not be what most people think of when they think of buttery, full, sunny California Chardonnay, but that’s just the point: it shouldn’t be. When there’s snow on the winery ground’s at Silver Mountain, people are dining outside in downtown Soquel or a few miles up the waterfront on the boardwalk in Santa Cruz. Every wine comes from somewhere, and if you understand from where it comes, you’re enjoyment of the wine will be enhanced greatly. Now that I understand what Twelftree is trying to accomplish with his Australian wines, I’m sure my next bottle will be more enjoyable.
Despite my relationship with AVA Wine, I am most noted for my expertise in Burgundy, precisely the lower-alcohol, food wines to which Asmiov occurs (at least in most cases). That being said, I unlike Mr. Asimov probably drink wine on its own at least half the time. And when I do drink it alone, I generally do prefer it to be lower in alcohol – in addition to Burgundy (both white and red), German Rieslings fit the bill nicely in this respect as well. If I opt for most California wines, Bordeaux or other fuller-bodied reds, I prefer to have them with red meat, a grilled steak usually does the trick. So in some ways, I guess you can say that I am in opposition to either Asimov or Twelftree in that, I only enjoy fuller, high-octane wines when they’re served with food; after all, if I going to binge, why not do it right and besides, if the wine has a good bit of alcohol, I’d prefer to have a big meal with it to try to avoid the negative affects of the alcohol. One of the worst ideas I’ve ever had was a a large tasting party where everyone was required to bring a bottle a Zinfandel – not White Zinfandel – but the alcoholic, intense, jammy red wine. After downing even small samples of 15 – 20 reds in excess of 15% alcohol, not one guest had their wits about them.
My I also posit the following? I know Asimov fairly well and appreciate his writing and knowledge as well. Twelftree I’ve met only briefly, but Mr. Asimov leaves out the fact that not only is Twelftree involved with Two Hands Winery in Australia but also runs a small, new negociant in Burgundy known as Mischief and Mayhem. The sources for Twelftree’s grapes in Burgundy are among some of the finest traditional producers in that region. So clearly Twelftree hasn’t lost sight of the fact that there’s room for more than one type of wine in the world.
Noting this takes me back to last weeks entry – where I basically told you that I like wines that taste the way they are supposed to taste. Wines from Diamond Mountain should taste like Diamond Mountain. Wines from the Napa Valley floor should taste just so. Even California Chardonnay comes in many forms - such as the steely, Silver Mountain 2001 Chardonnay from a cooler site atop high in the Santa Cruz Mountains. It may not be what most people think of when they think of buttery, full, sunny California Chardonnay, but that’s just the point: it shouldn’t be. When there’s snow on the winery ground’s at Silver Mountain, people are dining outside in downtown Soquel or a few miles up the waterfront on the boardwalk in Santa Cruz. Every wine comes from somewhere, and if you understand from where it comes, you’re enjoyment of the wine will be enhanced greatly. Now that I understand what Twelftree is trying to accomplish with his Australian wines, I’m sure my next bottle will be more enjoyable.
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